Hedgehog blouse – New Look 6395

It is impossible to walk past hedgehog cotton double gauze fabric. Completely impossible. And it is a perfect match for New Look 6395.

Honestly just look at those hedgehogs! They’re really very sweet and subtle enough that people won’t notice what they are until they look closely. And then we’ll get to have a conversation about whether they’re hedgehogs or echidnas, like my daughter and I did this morning. She is completely sure that these are hedgehogs. Echidnas would have longer noses (for the eating of the ants). Good point I thought. Hedgehogs.

I’ve been changing cameras during this project (new camera – much excitement!), and lost the pics of my full bust adjustment which I will no longer avoid doing. But, sadly, on this occasion I think it was effort wasted. I cut the pattern out to my high bust measurement, added a full bust adjustment, and then it was so big I had to bring it all down anyway. So I’d say this pattern runs a bit on the large side in terms of fit. I won’t bother with the FBA next time.

But I’m really happy now because, after bringing it in along the side seam, I have a top that gives me loads of ease and movement. It’s a simple, soft and breezy top for summer.

The fabric itself came from Ferrier Fabrics on Fullarton Road here in Adelaide. They have a beautiful range of fabrics and are always worth a visit. (Exciting postcript! I’ve since also spotted it at The Drapery on Glen Osmond Road in Adelaide, and they also have this fabric and some other beautiful double gauze fabrics available in their online store here.)

The selvedge tells me it was made in Japan, designed by Kokka and is perhaps called Trefle (or maybe is from the Trefle range?). But their website is entirely in Japanese so that’s where my understanding ends. The fabric itself, with its soft hand and indigo and white, with tiny hints of red, is quite traditional. But the hedgehogs definitely give it a lift.

Crimping the sleeve heads

I’ve tried crimping a few times recently, and it works brilliantly. Why didn’t I try this before? So much easier than gather up the threads as I’ve done for, hmm, over 25 years…

If you haven’t tried crimping before, here is a simple online tutorial to show you how it’s done. It really is that easy and I definitely recommend giving this technique a try.

Changes for next time

There are a few things I’ll change if I make this pattern again. Firstly, no FBA required. Secondly, I’m not a fan of the small half facing to finish the neckline. I think a full facing on the front (to match the top front panel), combined with a bound edge on the back neckline, would be better. That way all the front edges for the slit would be contained neatly, and the gathering for the attachment of the front panel would be held up, allowing the gathers themselves to point neatly down.

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The small facing shows on the right hand side of this picture. The larger blue piece at the left is the top front bodice itself. I didn’t get a pic of the inside of the slit, but just imagine that narrow back facing continuing all the way around, and making a right hand turn in an ‘L’ shape to get down the front slit area.

I shortened the blouse and would do that again. I took 1″ out above the waist when cutting out, and also took another 1.5″ off at the hem after trying it on, then did a double folded narrow hem. The shorter length is better for my overall (short) height. Without that, it was tunic length on me.

And I really should have paid more attention to pattern matching on that front panel. If I did a full front facing, I could just cut it on the fold and do away with that problem entirely next time.

Choosing the right buttons

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Ah, the fun of choosing buttons. The bottom right hand corner won. But it was a near thing. Any of these buttons from my stash would have been fine I think. Button selection is something I always agonise over.

And that’s it. A new comfy blouse for me, following an easy morning of relaxing Sunday sewing. What a nice way to finish off the weekend.

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7 Comments Add yours

  1. Siobhan S says:

    That fabric is so cute! You can’t tell it is hedgehogs until close up, like a happy little surprise. And you made a lovely top from it.

    Like

  2. Anemone says:

    Your hedgehog blouse is beautiful! I was very intrigued by the “crimping” technique you mentioned. I had not heard of this before, I’ll have to try it!

    Like

    1. It’s been a total revelation for me. I wish I’d known about this technique years ago. For some reason, by some miracle, the sleeve head seems to end up almost the perfect size each time I try it. Minor fiddling at the end and voila! all done

      Liked by 1 person

  3. Aless says:

    OOOO!! Thanks for the Ferrier’s tip-I can get there easily!! (Didn’t know they have double gauze now-one of my favourite fabrics!) Love those hedgehogs with the touch of red…..

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    1. This may have been their only double gauze? I’m not sure. Their bamboo jersey fabrics are also really nice. I made a top from one recently and looove wearing that so check them out as well. I will be going back for more.

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      1. Oooh stop press! I just spotted this fabric at The Drapery in Adelaide as well. And they have an online store and would be a great place to look at cotton double gauze fabric – here it is: http://www.thedrapery.com.au/category/cotton-double-gauze

        Like

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